Buying

What vehicle to buy
Where to buy a vehicle
Buying from a dealer
Buying used approved
How to buy a vehicle
How to check a vechicle
10 reasons why you need a data check
How to buy a new vehicle
Other buying options
Buying a caravan



A helping hand through the maze of motoring options Read our buying guide and tips to help you decide - hatchback or saloon, diesel, petrol or hybrid - and fill you in on everything you need to consider when you're buying a vehicle. Plus everything you need to know about vehicle inspections, warranties and vehicle crime?



Choosing the right fuel type is essential when buying a vehicle. So which one should you go for?

We look at the pros and cons of every fuel available today.
Petrol | Diesel | Biofuel | Electricity | Hybrids | Solar power | Hydrogen




Still the best choice for performance when driving, petrol is the most popular fuel with motorists across Ireland.

Pros:
• Responsive
• Quieter than diesel
• Petrol engines are generally cheap to repair
• Faster revving

Cons:
• Petrol engines are less environmentally-friendly than their diesel counterparts
• It’s non-renewable
• Produces more CO2 than other fuel types

Each type of petrol has its own research octane rating (RON). The higher the number, the better performing the petrol is. It essentially falls into four main categories:

1. Unleaded
The most common type of petrol, this has a RON of 95.

2. Super Unleaded
Much like unleaded, but with 98 RON it gives your vehicle better performance.

3. Leaded Four Star and Lead Replacement Petrol (LRP)
Leaded fuel was removed from sale back in 2000 and replaced by LRP. This fuel is basically 97 RON unleaded petrol with an additive to give the valve seat protection, which some vehicle need.

A valve seat is a surface inside a vehicle’s engine, which rests against the air intake or exhaust valve when the valve is closed – so to stop it from moving out of place and possibly reducing the engine’s efficiency.

LRP is generally only used for vintage vehicles so is less common.

4. High Performance
The difference between super unleaded and high performance fuels is marginal and more obviously noticed in supervehicle and other high performance vehicles.

Summary:
Best for driver’s who enjoy optimal performance and a smooth ride.




Diesel is becoming more popular, due to its efficiency benefits over petrol and its lower CO2 emissions.

Pros:
• Stays in each gear longer, helping with acceleration and reducing the need for gear changing
• High engine efficiency
• Lower CO2 emissions
• Some high performance fuels are available in diesel

Cons:
• Diesel engines are louder than their petrol counterparts
• Results in a less smooth ride
• More expensive than petrol by a couple of pence
• Higher Nitrogen Oxide (an air pollutant) emissions than petrol

Summary:
More environmentally friendly and economical for long distance drivers.





Fast becoming an alternative to petrol and diesel, biofuel uses renewable energy sources to power vehicles. Some of these vehicles have flexi-fuel engines, which allow both bioethanol and petrol in the tank.

There are two types of biofuel:

Bioethanol

Produced from everyday farm crops, bioethanol is an environmentally-friendly fuel type with a high octane rating for better performance.

Pros:
• Lower CO2 emissions
• High RON
• Low fuel consumption

Cons:
• Not as widely available as leaded
• Difficult to find

Biodiesel

Made from animal fats, sugar beet and vegetable oils, biodiesel fuel is less toxic than normal diesel and is swiftly growing in popularity with greener diesel drivers.

Pros:
• Lower CO2 emissions
• Lower engine wear
• Can be used in most normal diesel vehicles
• Can be gathered from restaurants and chip shops

Cons:
• May require engine modifications
• Not as readily available as normal diesel

Summary:
Good for long distance drivers who like both high performance and being environmentally friendly.





These vehicles can be recharged at a charging station, in garages or at home. Charge time varies from make to model.

Pros:
• No emissions from the vehicle
• No vehicle tax
• Very quiet
• Good acceleration

Cons:
• Requires a lot of electricity
• Indirect emissions from power station when charged
• Many have a short range (approximately 50 miles)
• Most have a lower top speed of around 40-50mph

Summary:
Perfect for the inner city driver who makes short journeys at low speeds.





Hybrid vehicles combine a rechargeable electric system with a fuel-based engine. Usually the battery is recharged by the internal combustion engine or from kinetic energy absorbed when braking. This results in impressive fuel economy and better efficiency.

Pros:
• Lower fuel consumption
• Lower CO2 and other pollutant emissions
• Quick acceleration
• Quiet drive

Cons:
• Expensive
• Not as readily available as petrol and diesel vehicle

Summary:
Great for those who use both the city and the motorway - without the need for high performance.





Hydrogen vehicles convert the chemical energy of Hydrogen into mechanical energy to give the vehicle power.

Pros:
• No CO2 or other emissions
• Environmentally-friendly

Cons:
• Hydrogen is highly flammable
• Hydrogen fuel cells are fragile
• Hard to obtain and store

Summary:
A good choice for the eco-conscious driver who thinks about the future and has some extra money to spend on it.





These types of vehicle are a less common sight on the roads, due to high production costs.

Pros:
• No CO2 or other emissions
• Great renewable energy source makes them cheap to run
• Very quiet

Cons:
• Cloudy and rainy weather will affect their speed
• Not ideal for night time driving
• Good idea, but difficult to implement and obtain

Summary:
For anyone who lives in a bright sunny location and likes their vehicle covered in solar panels.

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Know what you want? Fantastic. We can help you find the best place to buy the wheels your heart's set on. Check out the options below.


Many people choose the private route when buying a vehicle. The major benefit when choosing this route is that prices are generally cheaper.

If you choose to buy privately, you need to be aware that you have fewer legal comebacks than you do through a dealer and the checks that a dealer is compelled to make by law aren't a benefit in a private sale.

Buying privately can appear daunting for some, but as long as you make the right checks, buying a vehicle this way can be both satisfying and rewarding it just takes a little more work. The first stage of the process is conducted over the phone. Questions you must ask:

• How long have they owned the vehicle?
• Have they owned it from new?
• If not how many previous owners?
• Why are they selling it?
• What is the mileage?
• What features does the vehicle have?
• In their opinion, what sort of condition is the vehicle in?
• Is there any outstanding finance or hire purchase agreement?
• Does it have any tax or NCT?
• Has it been involved in any accident, and if so, which parts were damaged?
• Where was it repaired?
• Have they replaced anything on it recently?
• Has it been modified in any way?
• Are the repairs guaranteed?

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Buying from a dealer (Trade in Auto Trader ads) has advantages for many: Ideally any vehicle bought from a trader should include a warranty. You'll be able to part exchange your old vehicle. You will have ample opportunity to inspect and drive the vehicle prior to making your decision.

Reasons to buy from a dealer:

• This is the safest alternative as you receive the maximum protection of the law.
• Signs of Trade Association may mean that the dealer follows a regulated code of practice.
• The vehicle must be free of defects, except those pointed out to you at the point of sale.
• The vehicle must be as described in any advertising material. The vehicle must be fit for any purpose that you specify to the seller.

REMEMBER:
When buying from a dealer the Law says that a vehicle must be of Satisfactory Quality!

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Buying an Approved Used vehicle
If you’re looking for one of the safest options to buy a vehicle, then choosing a used approved vehicle may be the right choice for you.

We give you the low-down on vehicle manufacturer’s used and approved schemes.
What is a Used Approved vehicle?
Basically what it says on the tin – it’s been used by a previous owner and then returned or sold to the original dealer, before being repaired, checked and approved by the same dealer.

Used approved vehicles are moved into a showroom, where they are made available to buyers again... This makes it easier for you to purchase a specific model with many of the assurances of buying new – without the cost.

The Benefits
For peace of mind, buying a used vehicle from a manufacturer has its advantages. Apart from good sales service and vehicle reliability, you can expect these strong points from a used approved motor
No mechanical defects
Fully accredited history
Usually nearly new and well maintained
Good payment options; sometimes you can drive off before your money has gone through
Often comes with free warranty, insurance and breakdown cover
Manufacturer guarantees and code of practice
You might even be able to part exchange your old vehicle




Most vehicle manufacturers have their own used and approved schemes – all differ in price and service, but essentially remain the same in terms of what they offer: quality used vehicle.

It’s not only vehicle manufacturers which offer these schemes either – many motorcycle dealers offer them and you may find vans in some of the schemes too.

To look for a particular make or model, decide on what you’re looking for - then use our website to look for a model. Alternatively, search online for your preferred vehicle manufacturer and contact them directly.

Checks and procedures
To qualify as used approved, all vehicles must first go through a detailed pre-sales inspection, where any faults found are fixed. This makes the purchase a safe one.

The vehicle will also have its service history checked, as well as regular mechanical checks before being sold.

We contacted various vehicle manufacturers to see what tests are exactly made.






All liquid-oriented components are checked – this includes the brake fluid, front and rear screen washers, shock absorbers, power steering, clutch fluid and coolants.


Anything which runs off the vehicle battery is examined – things like all interior and exterior lights, clocks, door mirrors, the radio, air conditioning, front and rear screen wipers, electric windows and of course, the vehicle horn.


All aspects of vehicle safety are vehicleefully looked at – from airbags to seat belts, fuel reserves to hazard warning lights, and central locking to the handbrake.


Various detailed movement tests are vehicleried out, to ensure everything still works correctly. Some of these checks include the simple task of opening and closing doors, adjusting the seats, winding down the windows and opening the sunroof, gear changes and the temperature gauge.


Next comes the time for the door hinges to be greased, as well as fuel tests, spark plug examination, the timing of the ignition is recorded and the front axle is greased too.


The windscreen is analysed, as are various in-vehicle tools and the first aid kit. The interior is inspected and the vehicle specifications are measured and checked to make sure everything is the right size.


The vehicle is extensively tested on-road, to make sure everything runs smoothly. The exhaust system is given a good run through its paces, as is the heating system, traction control, cruise control, brakes, steering, clutch and more.


After the test drives comes even more series of tests – this time the paintwork is examined; service history is looked into and compared with the recent service test.


Finally the tyre condition is looked into, from tread depth to make and type. Also, air pressure and other factors are taken into account, including the temperature of the tyres and more.

This full service including both interior and exterior checks is standard with most used and approved schemes – showing their reliability. Check with the individual dealer with what their schemes cover before deciding on a model too rashly.

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Want That One You've found your ideal vehicle and seller. Auto Trader can help you make sure the sale goes through smoothly. Buying a used vehicle can have potential pitfalls - but it needn't be a painful experience if you follow a simple set of rules and checks. We bring you the essential guide to buying a used vehicle.





It's vital to research thoroughly before buying a used vehicle. Search our used vehicle ads online or in your local Auto Trader magazine to find out what your model’s going price is. This can save you paying too much – but also be aware if the price is too low.

It's also important to give yourself a budget, and include insurance, road tax and other running costs when you're doing your sums.

If you're applying for a loan, it's crucial you shop around for the lowest rates.




You can use our search to find the exact model you’re after. Simply select the specific features you want from the drop-down boxes and let the search do all the hard work for you. It’s completely free and quick to use.




Preparing to Buy a vehicle - Phoning the Seller. As private sellers are under no obligation to reveal a vehicle's history, or offer proof of any checks, the onus is very much on the buyer to determine a vehicle's past.

The first stage of this process is conducted over the phone - and if you get it right, it can save a lot of hassle and wasted time.

• How long have they owned the vehicle? Have they owned it from new? If not, how many previous owners are there?
• Why are they selling it?
• What is the mileage? What features does the vehicle have? In their opinion, what sort of condition is it in?
• Is there an outstanding finance or hire purchase agreement?
• Does it have any tax or NCT? If so, how much?
  
• Are there any service records (Use the latter to check mileage).
• Has it been involved in any accident damage, and if so, which parts were damaged? Where was it repaired? Are the repairs guaranteed?
  
• Have they replaced anything on it recently? Has it been modified in any way?
• Price should be negotiable - are they open to reasonable and fair offers?

• Arranging to meet in a 'mutual' location, such as a pub vehicle park. Why doesn't the seller want to reveal their address? Are they making sure you have no comeback?
• Not noticing mobile numbers; they're commonplace nowadays, but why should someone not want to back it up with a land-line number?
• Miss a trader in disguise. The classic opener on the telephone is to ask if "the vehicle" is still for sale - a "which one?" response is a dead give-away. Traders sometimes sell dodgy motors 'in disguise', thus avoid legal obligations to repair problems.

Always visit the seller at their home address. Don’t arrange to meet them at any other address aside from the one where they live.

Take the original advert with you, plus the notes you made during your phone conversation will the seller. This will enable you to check details like mileage and tax are the same as you were told during the call.





If you do one piece of research, do this. A vehicle data check is the smartest investment you'll make when buying a vehicle.

The check will reveal if the vehicle has been reported stolen, has outstanding finance on it (if so, it's technically still the property of the finance house), has been written-off or scrapped and what the full spec of the vehicle should be.

It will also tell you the price you should expect to pay for it.

You'll be able to see what the vehicle's identification number should be, so you can match it up to the numbers on the vehicle itself (commonly found on the chassis, on the windscreen or on the floor by the driver's seat).





It’s imperative you check the vehicle thoroughly for any faults or damages.

Follow these steps to ensure everything is checked and covered:

•  Never check a vehicle in the dark or in the rain. It will make it very difficult to spot dents, scratches, rust, and a multitude of other defects.
•  If you can, take a look at the vehicle before you ring the doorbell. This will give you a chance to look at it without being distracted by the seller.
•  Always start the vehicle with a cold engine. This will make it easier to spot starting problems or excessive smoke.
•  Crouch down in front of each front wheel and look along the length of the vehicle. Both front wheels should be directly in front of the rear – if they're not, it could mean the vehicle has been in a crash with a slightly twisted chassis. This is known as crabbing.
•  Check the gaps between the body panels are equal – if they're not, the vehicle could have been refitted badly, or may have been in a crash.
•  Take a look at the tyres. Are they in good condition?
•  Check under the vehicle, beneath the bonnet and the vehiclepet for rust and signs which may suggest the vehicle has been in a crash, such as welding marks.
•  When you're inside the vehicle, make sure the seatbelts work correctly; the steering wheel and dashboard are bolted on correctly. Also make sure the front seats move about properly and all switches work.
•  Under the bonnet, look for signs of oil leaks on top of the engine, and underneath. Use the dipstick to check the amount of oil. If the level is low, the owner hasn’t been looking after the vehicle properly.
•  Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket which can be very expensive to put right.

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One of the biggest worries vehicle buyers have is the fear of being stuck with a potentially dodgy deal.

The good news is by taking your time to check the condition of the vehicle, you can usually spot if something's amiss.

Auto Trader's Stuart Milne shows you how to avoid buying a bad vehicle.

• The golden rule is - never view a vehicle in the dark or in the rain, as weather can hide a multitude of sins. You'll never spot scratches, dents or rust in the rain, and a lack of light means many other potential problems will go unnoticed.

• When you arrive at your viewing, take a look around the vehicle before you ring the doorbell. This will give you a chance to look at it without being distracted by the seller.



• Firstly, take a walk around the vehicle and take it all in. Unless you've been told otherwise, the vehicle should be in a driveable state.

• You should always start the vehicle with a cold engine, as this is when it's easiest to spot starting problems or excessive smoke. Place a hand on the bonnet - if it's warm, it's been run recently, so let it cool for a few hours. If need be, come back later.

• Let the seller show you the vehicle, but don't let them distract you from vehiclerying out your own checks.

• Crouch down in front of each front wheel and look along the length of the vehicle. Both front wheels should be directly in front of the rear – if they're not, it could mean the vehicle has been in a crash with a slightly twisted chassis. This is known as crabbing.

• The wheels should sit neatly in the wheel arches, equally on both sides.

• Check the gaps between the panels are equal. Run your finger along each to feel if the gap is bigger at one end than the other. Uneven panel gaps occur if a vehicle has been in a crash, or if panels have been refitted badly.

• Look vehicleefully at each panel for ripples or overspray – where excess paint has flecked onto other trim, such as window seals or bumpers.

• Look closely at each tyre – including the spare. Watch for uneven wear, which could mean suspension damage, nicks and gouges. Tyres are expensive, so if they need replacing, use this as a bargaining tool.

• The minimum tread depth is 1.6mm for the whole way around the tyre. Use a tread depth gauge to see how much is left – the more, the better.

• Check under the vehicle, particularly at the front and back, under the bonnet and under the vehiclepet in the boot for signs of crash damage. Panels should be flat, and free from signs of welding or patching up – if they're not, it's probably had a shunt.

• Most shunts are minor, low-speed crashes, but you should take extra steps to be sure there aren't any more serious problems.

• Obviously rust is a bad sign, so keep your eye out all the time, especially around the wheel arches where moisture, grime and winter road salt can increase the speed of deterioration.



There are plenty of things to check inside, as well, most of which can be a good indication of mileage and the amount of vehiclee and attention it's had lavished on it.

• Look around the cabin – a 50,000 mile vehicle shouldn't have a worn or sagging seat or a steering wheel, gearknob or pedal covers which have been worn by lots of use.

• Make sure all the seatbelts work – they could indicate a previous crash or general neglect. They're a legal requirement too – if the vehicle is being sold with a new MOT certificate, alarm bells should be ringing as these should have been checked.

• Look closely at the dashboard binnacle (the bit which houses the speedometer and other dials). If the vehicle has an older, mechanical-style milometer which turns as you drive, make sure all the barrels are aligned correctly – turning these back is the oldest trick in the book. If there are fingerprints in there, ask why – there could be an honest explanation.

• This is harder to check on more modern models which have electronic milometers – the miles can be turned back simply by connecting a laptop and entering a new mileage.

• Either way, make sure the mileage tallies with old MOT certificates and service history.

• Make sure all the dashboard and steering column panels are bolted on correctly – they could point to a clocked vehicle, or one which has been stolen, particularly if there are glass fragments on the floor.

• Don’t be too quick to reject a vehicle – it can be tricky to bolt a dash back together after changing a blown bulb in the instrument panel.

• Make sure all the switches work – including the heater or air-con - and check the front seats move about properly.

• Locate the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You'll find this riveted in the engine bay. There are few reasons why this should have been removed, so be suspicious if there are signs of tampering, you could be looking at a clone – a stolen vehicle given the identity of a write-off.

• The VIN number will also be stamped in the floor beside the driver or passenger seat. A clone will have another number welded on, and are usually quite easy to swap.

• Modern vehicle also have the VIN recorded at the base of the windscreen.

• Check all the numbers match the logbook and your vehicle History Check documents – if they don't, walk away.



Next check under the bonnet – any problems you miss here could cost you a packet, so be thorough.

• Check for signs of oil leaks around the top of the engine, but don’t forget to check underneath as this will be where it's most obvious. Road grime can stick to oil, making it even more noticeable.

• Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a cloth and replace for a couple of seconds. Pull it out again and look at the amount of oil – it should be near the top; if not, the owner hasn’t been looking after it.

• The oil should be a golden colour – sludgy black oil is a sign the engine could be damaged.

• Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket which can be very expensive to put right.

And don't forget to vehiclery out a vehicle history check to find out whether its stolen, an insurance write-off or subject to outstanding finance.





You should never buy a vehicle without driving it first.

Ireland's Auto Trader lists the do's and don’ts of the test drive.

Before you view the vehicle, make sure you're fully insured, and take proof with you - most sellers will want to know you're covered in the event of an accident.

• Start the vehicle - preferably when the engine is cold. It should start straight away - if it takes too long, it could be trouble.
• After you've started the vehicle, check the exhaust for excessive noise. If there are holes in it, there will be lots of noise - this is known as a 'blow'.
• Have a look at the exhaust smoke - white, steam-like smoke is OK, unless there's a lot. Blue smoke can indicate an internal oil leak, which can be expensive to rectify.
• Once the engine has been running for a while, the temperature gauge should sit around the halfway mark.
• Before you set off, turn the steering wheel from one lock to the other. There should be no screeching, banging or knocking. It should also be smooth.
• Test the handbrake by pulling it on and trying to drive off gently. If it fails to hold the vehicle back, it will need attention - although most handbrakes will still loose the battle with an engine.
• On your test drive, you should drive on as many different kinds of roads and surfaces as possible. Use all the gears, and don't forget reverse.
• On manual vehicle, the gear change should be slick and smooth, and the clutch pedal should 'bite' between the top and middle of the pedal's travel. If the clutch doesn't disengage until the pedal is on or near the floor, it needs adjusting or replacing - expensive.
• If you're driving an automatic, there shouldn't be any slurring, whining or banging.
• Accelerate hard, and watch for smoke from the exhaust, and after checking no one is behind, brake sharply. If you feel the vehicle pulling to one side or hear noises, the brakes will need examining.
• Throughout your test drive, listen out for unusual noises and don't let the seller distract you by talking or turning up the radio.
• The seller will usually suggest a route, but if it's not long enough tell them. But remember, don’t start abusing the vehicle - you haven’t bought it yet.

Take a moment to remind yourself of any vehicle faults or work you think might need doing to the vehicle. Use this to negotiate the price with the seller.

Ask the seller what they realistically expect to get. Make a lower offer for the vehicle, then stay silent. This gives them two options – accept your offer, or make a counter offer.

When it looks like they’re about to accept your offer, move to shake their hand and confirm the deal.




Ensure you see all of the following:
1. The Vehicle Registration Certificate
2. The vehicle’s service history
3. NCT details
4. A valid tax disc (if the seller said tax is included)

Everything must be present and correct, or you should walk away from the deal. Make sure all the documents are original – don't accept photocopies.

Examine the logbook (Vehicle Registration Certificate) vehicleefully. Check the seller is the recorded keeper in the Vehicle Registration Certificate. If not, they're not legally entitled to sell you the vehicle.

Lots of dealer stamps in the logbook means it's likely the vehicle is well maintained. It's always worth calling the garage to check they did vehiclery out the work.




Make sure you ask for a receipt when making any payment, especially if it’s cash. Get two copies signed - one for you and one for the seller. Make sure the seller's address and vehicle details are on both.

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A vehicle data check is the smartest investment you'll make when buying a vehicle. For the price of a tank of petrol you can find out if the vehicle you’re about to buy is recorded as stolen, has outstanding finance or a dodgy past.


Vehicles taken without the owner's consent are listed on the Police National Computer. Getting a data check will find out if the vehicle has been listed as stolen - and potentially save you thousands.


If a vehicle has outstanding finance it's legally still owned by the finance company. But it's not necessarily bad news - you can still come to an agreement with the finance company, and end up owning the vehicle.


There are five different categories as to how badly a vehicle has been written off. A vehicle check will tell you if the vehicle has been written off, and into which category it falls.


A data check will unearth any potentially dodgy goings on with vehicles which have been sent for scrap, but have somehow returned to market. Another money saver.


If the vehicle has had its mileage altered, a vehicle check will show up the discrepancy immediately. If the information is available, a vehicle check will reveal if the mileage has been wound back or if the vehicle is older than advertised.


Every make and model of vehicle has a market value. The data check will provide you with this, and show you if you're getting a good deal or are about to be ripped off.


The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) – otherwise known as the chassis number – should match the one on the vehicle registration certificate (V5C) and the markings elsewhere on the vehicle (commonly on the windscreen or on the floor by the driver's seat). A data check will tell you what the vehicle's correct VIN should be.


Getting a data check will allow you to see the full spec (make, model, date of first registration, engine number, transmission etc) of the vehicle you're about to buy. If there are any major differences between the spec and what has been advertised – walk away from the deal.


The data check will also tell you how many previous owners the vehicle has had. If the seller is advertising 'one previous owner' and the data check tells you there have been more, it should set the alarm bells ringing.


Some services offer the prospective buyer free insurance if any of the data in the report turns out to be incorrect. Auto Trader Vehicle Check offers up to £15,000 if this turns out to be the case. Our check also offers a free check if the report identifies the vehicle as recorded as stolen, written off (Cat A or B), scrapped or on a risk alert register.

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Buying a new vehicle is easy. But it could be the second biggest investment you ever make, so it pays to do everything you can to get the best possible deal.

We bring you the essential guide to buying a new motor.




There are many advantages to buying a new vehicle over a used one. You have the choice of any vehicle you want with the exact specification you want. And you can’t beat that new vehicle smell.

There's the opportunity to get consumer offers – cash back deals, free accessories and warranty, to give you peace of mind if something goes wrong.

There are tons of great deals to find, all you have to do is choose the best one for you.

Identify your needs
There’s a huge range of new vehicle models to choose from. So where should you start?

Consider all your requirements. Ask yourself:

1. What will you use it for?
2. How long you expect to own it?
3. Are you looking for reliability?
4. How many miles do you plan to do?
5. Are you buying it for practicality, for fun, or perhaps a bit of both?
6. Do you want something luxurious or thrifty?
7. How much are you willing to spend? (include other costs such as insurance, tax, services and fuel)
8. What type of model and manufacturer are you leaning towards?

These questions will influence your purchasing decision and help reach a conclusion on what type of motor you choose to go for.




Always confirm the details in the advert are correct. This could save you a wasted trip.

Make sure you ask:
• Is the delivery price included?
• How soon can the vehicle be delivered?
• Is road tax included?
• Are registration fees included?




If you’re buying from a franchised dealer (who sells vehicle on behalf of a manufacturer), visit the showroom to view the vehicle to make sure you’re happy with it.

It’s best to take a look at the vehicle in the best conditions possible. Never view a vehicle in the dark or the rain - they can hide defects in the bodywork.





Always test drive a vehicle before buying it as this will give you a feel for it and raise any concerns. For example, the vehicle might not be big enough for your needs, or the engine noise could be unbearable.

Make sure you’re fully insured to drive the vehicle, and take proof of this with you. Most dealers will let you drive with trade number plates, which should provide you with cover - but check this is the case.

• Drive on as many road surfaces as possible (e.g. tarmac, concrete) to make sure the ride is comfortable.
• Get a feel for the vehicle & figure out its pros and cons, and how it will suit you.
• Use all the gears.
• Avoid being distracted by the dealer if he talks a lot or turns up the radio.




There’s still plenty of room for negotiation on the price of a new vehicle, and it’s always worth pushing for.

Why not try and get these extras thrown in?
• Metallic paint
• Protective coating for the paintwork and upholstery
• A good deal on finance (dealers often work on commission)
• A full tank of fuel – since new vehicle are often sold with very little fuel
• Floor mats and mudflaps

You may  be able to get a better deal towards the end of the month when salespeople are chasing their targets.




Make sure the registration on the vehicle tallies with the one in the logbook (Vehicle Registration Certificatate), as well as the vehicle identification number.

Don't forget to make sure you receive the correct manuals and the codes for the radio and keys, if applicable.




Get a receipt for any payment you make, especially if you’re paying cash.
Make sure both your copy and the dealer’s copies are signed.




If things go wrong with the deal – like the vehicle not turning up or not being the exact model you wanted - protest at the earliest opportunity.





There are certain makes and models of new vehicle not available in the Ireland – this is where an import may be the answer.
Importing can be vehicleried out in a number of ways, for example:

1. Buying a vehicle from within the EU or the rest of the world.
2. vehiclerying out the import yourself or using an import broker.
3. A vehicle available in the Ireland but its overseas model boasts added features or a lower price.

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There are many options when buying a vehicle with dealers and private adverts just two of them. Here are a few other choices worth considering.




Vehicle auctions used to be the preserve of traders. Bulk selling of anything from nearly new stock to rental fleets and unwanted trade-ins, can wield some serious bargains for private buyers who do their homework.

With little or no opportunity to test-drive the vehicle, or contact previous owners, it's a risky route, and there's little legal protection.

If you're new to auctions, it's always best to take along an experienced buyer or someone who knows about vehicle and do a dry run first. You need to pay the balance too, plus the auction fee on the night. Not for the faint-hearted.

Always speak to your insurer before buying from a vehicle auction. When you buy from an auction you may not be insured to drive home. Most motor traders have trade insurance which allows them to drive any vehicle but private buyers are subject to different laws.




New and used Japanese imports allow Irish buyers access to models not available on these shores. They may offer better specifications, but many models differ depending on where they are sold.

Buying from abroad can be cheaper but when you go to sell the vehicle on it will have a lower residual value.

It is now much easier to buy from abroad and can be cheaper too. But remember when you sell the vehicle, it will be worth less than an official  model. Specifications on vehicle purchased abroad may vary slightly compared to Irish models.

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Whether you're a first time buyer or a mobile home veteran, we can help you with your purchase
Are you buying privately or from a trader? New or used? Whether you're after a caravan, mobile home or something completely different, we can help you through the buying process.




Trailer weight
The Camping and caravanning Club recommend that the loaded weight of your caravan should not exceed 85 percent of the kerbweight of your vehicle. However, you should never exceed the kerbweight given in the vehicle’s handbook.

Noseweight
This is the weight that you put on the tow ball of your vehicle and is typically between 50 and 100kg. For stability, the noseweight should not exceed this limit.

Payload
Payload is the weight of the items that you are allowed to vehiclery in your caravan - you will find this in the handbook. Check the loading of your caravan periodically to make sure you aren't exceeding the total weight allowed. Manufacturers call this the gross weight

Safe on the Road
Before taking to the road you should ensure that your vehicle and trailer combination is correctly matched and equipped. In order to continue safely, regular servicing is essential - some checks need vehiclerying out every trip and a caravan certainly needs a main service once a year.

Some checks are simple enough, but others may require a bit of mechanical knowledge. If in doubt, leave it to the experts.

Tow Bar
A correctly fitted and maintained towbar is vital for safety, as it is the only connection between vehicle and trailer. Make sure that all the bolts are tightened to the recommended torque figure and that there is no cracking or rusting around the mounting points.

Brakes
Brake maintenance is best left to properly trained engineers, but it’s worth keeping an eye on your brake mechanism and cables. If you have any doubts get them checked straight away.

Make sure the metal breakaway cable is in good condition. This cable is designed to pull on the caravan’s brakes, snap and allow the vehicle to run free of the braking caravan in the event that the caravan comes off the towbar. Always connect this to a separate mounting point and not the tow ball.

Suspension
Check the condition of the suspension for both the vehicle and trailer, as it is important for safety as well as comfort. When your caravan is attached to your vehicle it should tow level or slightly nose down but never nose up. If you find that the vehicle rear sags you may need some form of suspension aid. Get specialist advice on the type required for your vehicle from your vehicle dealer.

Tyres
Never mix cross ply tyres with radials on the same axle. Make sure you check the pressures and condition of the tyres before every trip - you will find correct pressures detailed in your handbook. Before setting out, check that the caravan wheel nuts are tight, ensure wheel trims are replaced securely and always vehiclery a spare wheel.

Electrics
The road lights on your trailer are operated from the tow vehicle through a 12N-type socket and plug. Check the caravan’s indicators and lights are working in unison with the vehicle each time you set off. A dashboard display or warning bleeper must be fitted inside the tow vehicle to show that the trailer’s lights are working.

Mirrors
It is vital to have a good view of the road behind you and along the sides of your caravan. This will usually mean attaching additional towing mirrors to your vehicle’s wing mirrors - make sure these are securely fixed and adjusted correctly





There are hundreds of security devices on the market and some are better than others. None will make your caravan totally thief-proof, but they will make most thieves think twice about stealing your 'van.

Buy the best security you can afford and make sure the thief knows the device is fitted. Stickers are usually supplied with security items – so use them!

Hitch locks
Hitch locks provide a reasonable degree of protection from the opportunist thief. Get one that is manufactured from heavy steel to cover the tow socket fixing bolts and has a good lock.

Some hitch locks can lock the caravan to the vehicle but make sure it is unlocked when you are actually towing - use them only on site or if you leave the caravan unattended. They don’t generally offer sufficient security for when the caravan is in storage, but they will make things much harder for a thief.

Wheel Clamps
There are many different kinds of wheel clamps on the market, but remember, generally speaking the easier they are to put on the easier they are for a thief to take off.

Buy a good clamp and check that it correctly fits your caravan’s wheel – if they don’t fit correctly, a thief can remove the wheel and the clamp with it.

Wheel Stands
If you think that wheel stands are the only way to keep hold of your ‘van, think again - a determined thief will come prepared with a set of wheels. But wheel stands can be a deterrent; if you make sure they are locked in place.

Check your handbook as some chassis manufacturers recommend axle stands for winter storage.

Make sure you check with your insurers that they are happy to let you keep your caravan on wheel stands, as some insurance policies call for the van to be fitted with a wheel clamp at all times.

Security Posts
These are particularly useful for those who keep their caravan on the drive at home. They are cemented into the drive and physically block movement of the caravan. Some can be fitted with a towbar on top of the post so that the caravan can be fixed with a hitch lock. Others are detachable or can fold down so that the caravan can be manoeuvred into position.

Make Crime Pay
If you have any information concerning caravan theft or disposal of stolen caravans contact the confidential free phone Crimestoppers Line on 0800 555111. You can stay anonymous and you may be entitled to an reward.

Leaving your caravan
Storage sites are particularly popular with thieves - there are lots of caravans to choose from and often plenty of undisturbed time in which to work.

Thieves don't vehiclee if you are on holiday – they’ll steal caravans from lay-bys, motorway service stations and picnic sites. Even if you're just stopping for a cup of tea or to stretch your legs, make sure your caravan is secured.

Parking in your driveway or garden is no guarantee against theft either, so stay alert.




If you’re selling a caravan, never part with your caravan until the cheque has cleared. This includes building society cheques and bank drafts – they could be stolen or forged, leaving you without a caravan or money.




If you are buying a caravan, always meet at the seller’s house. If they insist they meet you in another location, such as a vehicle park or your house, be suspicious. Make sure that the house they claim to live in is actually theirs - sellers have been known to use the driveway of an empty house.

If the caravan is CRIS registered call CRIS as they will have records of the owner as well as records of scrapping, theft or if it is subject to outstanding finance.

Check the caravan’s chassis number for signs of tampering. If it has been removed or altered, contact the police.

If the seller asks you to ring only at certain times, be wary. They may be using a public call box to cover their tracks – dial 100 and ask the operator to check for you





Vehicle Length
Towing a caravan is no more difficult than driving solo - providing that you are aware of the additional length. There is no reason why your trailer should not dutifully follow your vehicle but you will need to allow more time and space to stop safely, overtake and corner.

Corners
When turning, you will need to turn later and harder than you usually would as the trailer will not follow the exact path of your vehicle.

Braking
Braking distances whilst towing a caravan may increase by 20 percent, depending on the road conditions. Remember never to slam on your brakes, as this can cause the trailer to jack-knife, so keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front.

Instability
Snaking is the most common form of instability and is often due to bad loading or excessive speed. However, even well matched units can snake due to air from passing lorries or coaches. Vertical instability is called pitching and can occur if you hit a pothole.

In either case don't apply your brakes hard - slow down gradually by easing off the accelerator. A stabiliser will help to avoid snaking and pitching but it must not be a replacement for a good vehicle and caravan combination or weight distribution.

Marking your caravan
If your caravan is stolen the chances of getting it back can be dramatically improved by taking action now.

Photographs
Take photographs of your caravan, particularly any distinctive features. This can help identification should your caravan be stolen and subsequently recovered.

Roof Marking
Many police forces recommend that you mark your postcode on the roof of your caravan which can be seen by police aircraft and helicopters. vehicle kits are available, or you can paint your own.

Tracking
If you have a desirable caravan, it may be worth investing in a tracking system. These use global positioning satellite technology to pinpoint your caravan to a few metres in the event that it is stolen.

They are not cheap to buy and there is usually a monthly line rental, but this can be outweighed by possible insurance discounts.

Etching
Etch your caravan chassis number or postcode on all windows and in several hidden places inside the van. You can use an ultra violet pen for this but a simple spirit based felt tipped pen inside a cupboard or under beds is almost impossible to remove.

Microchip
A number of companies can embed a small microchip into your caravan structure, which can be found by a scanner. As of mid-2004, over 60,000 caravans have been tagged, making it harder for thieves to dispose of stolen 'vans and increasing the likelihood of stolen caravans being returned to their rightful owners.

All caravans built since 1997 have a Radio Frequency Tagging chip (RFID) fitted at manufacture. This technology has improved on shortfalls in CRIS technology (see below), as RFID chips are easier for the authorities to locate.

Records
Keep a note of your caravan chassis number and other important information. Keep these records safe and away from the caravan.

CRIS
CRIS stands for caravan Registration and Identification Scheme. Since 1992 almost all new caravans vehiclery a 17-digit number that is stamped onto the A-frame and etched into at least three windows.

If you are buying a CRIS registered caravan you can phone CRIS who will be able to confirm if it listed as stolen, scrapped or listed as having outstanding finance.

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